Welcome! This is my crochet site. It's mostly for my own reference, but if others find it interesting and useful that's good too. ~Snow



Red & Black Spiral Striped Socks

spiral striped socksThis was my second pair of striped socks. I flattened the toe a bit, and came up with an interesting way to spiral the stripes so that there is no seam. I made these for Mike.

Yarn: Red wool-ease (2 strand), Black wool (1 strand) [This 2:1 ratio is why the red is more prominent in these socks.]

Hook: H/8/5.0 mm
Measurements: I would call this a medium sized slipper sock. The length of the sock heel to toe is about 11 inches. Around the foot (rows 7-25) also measures about 11 inches. Member that these are intended to be worn over regular socks, for extra warmth, more of a slipper you wear around the house.

Here are photos of (1) the toe of the sock, and (2) the diagram from my notebook, which may help, when combined with the text instructions, which are much more difficult to follow alone, imo.

toe of spiral spiral diagram

Start at Toe

Row 1: Starts at toe. With Main Color (MC) ch 5, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, [1 sc in next st] twice, 2 sc in last ch. Put a stitch marker in the loose loop so that it won’t pull out, and switch to your Contrast Color (CC), you will work 2 sc in the other side of the same ch you just made 2 MC sts in, [1 sc in next st] twice, 2 sc in next (last) ch…

Row 2: continue working with CC and start row 2 by working 2 sc in the very 1st MC sc you made in row 1 (do NOT end row 1 with sl st and ch 1, this pattern is worked entirely in a spiral, and you will want to use a st marker in the first MC st and the first CC st you work in each row so that you know exactly where ea row starts in ea color), [sc in next st] 4 times, 2 sc in next st (is last st of row 1 in MC), drop CC and switch to MC (I move the st marker from the loop I am picking up to the one I am dropping), continue row 2 with MC: 2 sc in next st (1st CC st), [sc in next st] 4 times, 2 sc in next st… (Again I encourage you to mark that first MC st of this row)

NOTE: You will always be working MC sts into CC sts, and vice versa. Always.

Row 3: Cont. working with MC – {2 sc in next st (move your st marker), [sc in next st] 6 times, 2 sc in next st}… switch to CC, repeat { to }. (20 sc)

Row 4: Cont. working with CC – {2 sc in next st (move your st marker), [sc in next st] 8 times, 2 sc in next st}… switch to MC, repeat { to }. (24 sc)

Row 5: Cont. working with MC – {2 sc in next st (move your st marker), [sc in next st] 10 times, 2 sc in next st}… switch to CC, repeat { to }. (28 sc)

Row 6: Cont. working with CC – {2 sc in next st (move your st marker), [sc in next st] 12 times, 2 sc in next st}… switch to MC, repeat { to }. (32 sc)


Rows 7 – 25: Continue switching back and forth between the colors, and going round, always keeping the first st in ea color for ea row marked so that it will be easy to count and keep track of how many rows are completed.

Row 26: Here’s the most complicated bit.

First, flatten out the sock foot based on the line of beg ch 5. In a spiral of sc sts, you line of where your rows beg slowly rotates in a curve. You don’t want the toe cockeyed later when you wear these, so you will now make a small adjustment to where row 26 starts. For mine, I had to add 3 sc in MC to even it out with where the side ‘should be’.

Second, we need to make the hole for the heel now, and it should be a little more than half the available space, so (you’ ll love this) pull out one of the sts you just made, because the gap is 18 sts (half would be 16) so we add one from this side and then one from the other.

Third: Now you need to create a chain and sc row in parallel. It’s hard to learn, but it’s great once you’ve got it. The reason it’s worth it is that it won’t have the hard line of a chain, it will have flex and give like the rest of the fabric. I find I use this all the time now. Let’s see if I can explain it properly…

The Opening for the heel: Hook into the same space where you made your last st, yo and pull thru, and ch 1, and then yo and pull thru both loops on your hook. You’ve made a ch 1 with the sc on it at the same time. Do you see it? Okay, now to continue… [hook into the ch 1 at the base of the st you just made, yo and pull thru, and ch 1, and yo and pull thru both loops on your hook] 17 times. This will give you a total of 18 ‘ch 1 & sc’ sts created loose and away from the body of the foot.

Reattach: First, switch to CC and work 1 sc in ea st all the way out onto this dangling bit. Then, switch back to MC, and skip 18 sts of last (CC) row of foot, work a sc into next st of CC row, then sc in each of the next 13 sts. This should roughly bring you back to having the MC stop at the “beginning of row/side of sock”, mark that st and go ahead and st around to the other side, mark the st even and opposite to it, so that as you build the ankle youcan keep track of even rows and stop each color opposite each other and on the sides of your ankle (reference the photos). Mine goes to Row 42 and then stops. You can go as far as you like. Cut threads and hide.


Now, you have a hole where you need a heel. On the foot side you have one color and on the ankle side you have the other color. Remember you always work CC sts into MC sts, and vice versa. So, go to the corner where you will be working into MC sts, attach with your CC, sc in each st across. Drop that and pick up new thread of MC and attach to the next st which will be CC, sc in ea st across,

Start Spiral: Continue working with MC, sc2tog (sc next 2 sts together. IE: hook into st 1, yo and pull loop thru, hook into st 2, yo and pull loop thru, yo and pull thru all 3 loops on hook), sc in ea of the next 6 sts, drop that thread and move to the other one…

Heel Spiral: At each corner you sc2tog twice, then you work 1 sc into each st across the middle. This means you are decreasing 4 sts per row. It’s the opposite of what you did to increase at the toe. You switch back and forth with the colors and decrease in this way until you have an opening of an inch or so. Stop there, pull up each thread, leave at least a 10 inch tail of each thread. Then get your yarn needle, turn the sock inside out, push those loose threads through the hole and use them both to sew up the hole securely.


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